Back in those times, there was not such an incessant need of home security for the common man, as most of the family members would work only a small walk away from their homes. However, today, with the advent of globalization, most family members are working and away from home, leaving the elderly and children at home. Therefore, a good home security and alarm system is the need of the day. Here are just some of the home security alarms which will ensure a peaceful night to you and your family members.

One of the most popular ways of safeguarding homes is the alarm system. There are various alarm systems available for all types of homes. The smoke alarm is considered to be one of the simplest home alarm systems. Though the smoke alarm is not as strong a system as the others, it works well if the burglars are stupid enough to smoke in the house. Some burglars are even known to cook food in the house, once they check whether the house has been locked up for a long time, for example a foreign travel binge.

Some of the most complete home security systems consist of features which enables the user to contact the police, the nearest hospital and any emergency services required. Most systems work on a combination of contact points and motion sensors placed at doors and windows A typical home alarm system includes:

* Control Panel: The control panel is the center of the entire home security system. It is where the system terminates are located, as well as where the phone line connects if the security system is a monitored one. The control panel also has the backup batteries.

* Inside Motion detector: These detectors will sense any motion in the room, or any other changes in the room caused by human presence.

* Contacts: These specific door and window contacts allow the alarm to go off when the doors of windows are opened while the alarm is set on.

* Keypads: The keypad is a normal set of buttons which allows the home security system to be armed of disarmed.

While these are the general elements of a home security systems, some home security systems also have:

* Glass Break Detectors: These help in detecting any glass break. Most burglars do not have open the entire windows to get into the house, they can get inside by merely breaking a pane of the window or the door.

* Pressure Mats: There have been occasions where only the elderly or the children have been at home. In such cases, the very presence of burglar is a cause of concern, because a botched burglary is more dangerous than a successful one. Therefore, some home security systems have pressure pads, which can be placed under the rugs. This will alert the home owner of any unwanted presence in the home and its surroundings.

* Panic Buttons: These so-called ‘panic buttons’ connect the home security system to any numbers that need to be contacted immediately in the case of a burglary, for example the police, the hospitals and even the fire brigade.

Home security systems are of two types, monitored and non-monitored systems. Monitored systems have a central monitoring station which is contacted whenever the home security system is triggered off. The station then informed the relevant authorities about the break-in.

Non-monitored home security systems rely on the neighbors with their on-site alarms and in some cases strobing lights. If you are looking to have someone install a reliable home security system in your home look no further, on Repairfinders.com there are dozens of hardworking professionals listed that are more than willing to make sure you are safe in your own home.

A carefully considered insulation strategy that takes into account the house’s characteristics and the climate it is in is essential for controlling heat gain and loss through the building enclosure, which includes the roof, walls, and foundation. It does this by slowing the rate of heat flow through the building enclosure — which has a significant influence on how comfortable you and your family are in your home.

Insulation is typically referred to by its R-value. R-value is the measure of a material’s resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the more resistant a material is to heat flow. If you lived in Minnesota, for example, you would want R-19 insulation in your walls instead of R-13, because R-19 insulation is more resistant to heat flow, and will hold in the heat longer. If you are remodeling your own home, you will want to find out the ideal levels for your region. A good place to look is at Repairfinders.com where you will find qualified professionals, who can explain to you the basics of insulation.

The building enclosure should be insulated continuously without gaps. Having gaps in the building enclosure is similar to wearing a warm coat, but no gloves or hat. However, keeping the insulation continuous is tricky. There are numerous openings in the building enclosure, like for windows, doors, electrical outlets, plumbing pipes, and lighting fixtures. All gaps or openings need to be sealed so that the insulation is continuous. If you would like more information about air sealing, look no further than Repairfinders.com

Choosing an insulation material and installing it right are critical steps in the insulation strategy. Now that you know the basics about how insulation works, and why it’s critical in your home, start talking with your builder about the insulation strategy they’re choosing for your home, and why. You should do this in the planning and design phases of your home. If you are planning to remodel your home and want to learn more about insulation, a good place to start is at Repairfinders.com, where you can find a professional for anything that may need to fixed or repaired in your home.

Forty-seven percent of the United States depends on ground water for their basic drinking water supply. Having a basic understanding about ground water quality will help ensure that your well is supplying potable water for your household.

Along with human activities, water quality is affected by a combination of natural processes. Most relate to chemical compositions underground. However, other factors such as biological, physical, and radiological conditions can affect water quality as well.

The National Ground Water Association recommends that water well owners have their wells checked and tested by a certified and/or licensed contractor every year to ensure water safety. You can find these licensed contractors on Repairfinders.com

Hard Water

The most common problem associated with ground water may be hardness, generally associated with an abundance of calcium and/or magnesium dissolved in the water. Hard water has not been shown to cause health problems, but can be a nuisance as it may cause soap curds and deposits to form on pipes and other plumbing fixtures. Over time, this can reduce the diameter of the pipes.

Calcium and magnesium are found in ground water that has been exposed to certain rocks and minerals, especially limestone and gypsum. When these materials are dissolved, they release calcium and magnesium. Hard water is considered bad for your plumbing, but people with heart or circulatory problems may want to consult their physician about drinking softened water, because the softening process removes calcium and magnesium, and adds sodium to the water.

Iron and Manganese

A “rusty” or metallic taste in water is a result of iron, and sometimes manganese, in ground water. They not only create a bad taste, but they also can stain pipes and clothing.

Iron and manganese are naturally occurring, and most ground water has some amount of dissolved iron and manganese in it. It comes from contact with minerals that contain iron, such as pyrite.

There are several treatment methods. Installing a water softener may help if iron and manganese are present in low quantities and the softener is designed for their removal. Aeration (the addition of oxygen to the water), chlorination, and feeding ozone or hydrogen peroxide can aid in the precipitation of iron, which it is removed from the water by filtration. Potassium permanganate feed with manganese greensand filters, and some recently designed synthetic media, will remove iron and manganese, as well.

Nitrogen

Most nitrogen in ground water comes from the atmosphere. Some plants can “attach” nitrogen from the atmosphere onto their roots. The nitrogen not used by the plants is then released into the soil.

Nitrogen compounds also can work their way into ground water through fertilizers, manure, and urine from farm animals, sewage, and landfills.

The most common forms in ground water are ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite. Nitrates can be especially toxic to children under six months of age. Exposure to ammonia also presents a health risk. It is toxic to aquatic life such as fish, and it interferes with water treatment.

There are a variety of treatment methods to correct this problem, including reverse osmosis systems with water softeners to remove nitrates and nitrites, and oxidation to remove small amounts of ammonia. However, treatment should be a last resort. Removing the source of contamination is the first priority. You should also be sure to protect the area around the wellhead from contamination by animals or fertilizers.

Silica

Silica comes from the weathering of silicate minerals in the ground. It causes no harmful effects to humans, but large amounts can cause scaling in pipes that impacts water flow, and it can interfere with iron and manganese removal.

Sulfur

Sulfur can occur in ground water in two forms: sulfides and sulfates. Sulfides are naturally occurring in much of the United States in limestone containing organic materials; ground water affected by oil, gas, and coal deposits; in marshes and manure pits; and in the byproduct of well-established iron bio films. Sulfates often come from the dissolving of minerals, such as gypsum and anhydrite.

A “rotten egg” smell coming from your water indicates the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas. Along with creating an unpleasant odor and taste, sulfides cause corrosion to plumbing and darken water.

There are several methods for treating sulfur. Aeration, ozone, hydrogen peroxide, and chlorine (best followed by filtration) are effective against dissolved hydrogen sulfide or gas. A reverse osmosis system, nanofiltration system, or a negative ion-exchanger also can be effective in reducing sulfates. Filtration is necessary in combating sulfur formation as a mineral or in bio films.

Total Dissolved Solids

TDS, as it is commonly known, is the concentration of all dissolved minerals in water. It is the direct measurement of the interaction between minerals and ground water.

TDS levels above 1000 mg/L will usually yield poor tasting water. Levels above 2000 mg/L are considered undrinkable due to taste, and levels more than 10,000 mg/L are defined as undrinkable.

Water softeners with a reverse osmosis system are effective in lowering the TDS to satisfactory levels.

Additional Treatment Information

For more information on water treatment methods, you should contact a well specialist. There are many listed on Repairfinders.com. All it takes is a moment of your time, and remember that when it comes to something as life sustaining as water, you do not want to hold for tomorrow, what you should do today.

Solar power can be used in both large-scale applications and in smaller systems for the home. Businesses and industry can diversify their energy sources, improve efficiency, and save money by choosing solar technologies for heating and cooling, industrial processes, electricity, and water heating. Homeowners can also use solar technologies for heating and cooling and water heating, and may even be able to produce enough electricity to operate “off-grid” or to sell the extra electricity to the utilities, depending on local programs. The use of passive solar heating and daylighting design strategies can help both homes and commercial buildings operate more efficiently and make them more pleasant and comfortable places in which to live and work.

Beyond these localized uses of solar power, utilities and power plants are also taking advantage of the sun’s abundant energy resource and offering the benefits to their customers. Concentrating solar power systems allow power plants to produce electricity from the sun on a larger scale, which in turn allows consumers to take advantage of solar power without making the investment in personal solar technology systems.

Solar power technologies, from individual home systems to large-scale concentrating solar power systems, have the potential to help meet growing energy needs and provide diversity and reliability in energy supplies.

If you are looking into Solar Energy, great choice! On Repairfinders.com you will have no problem finding the right business that will be more than happy to install solar panels for a more energy efficient home.

If you own a house, you own a water heater. You probably don’t spend much time thinking about the water heater until, one morning, you go to take a shower and there’s no hot water. Then you probably think about it a lot.

And if you’re the curious sort, the following water-heater question may have crossed your mind: “How can the water stay hot if cold water comes in as soon as you start using the hot water?”

A gas water heater is nearly identical to an electric water heater, except that it does not contain the two heating elements, but instead has a gas burner at the bottom, with the chimney running up through the middle of the tank.

A water heater consists of the following parts.

1.     A heavy inner steel tank that holds the hot water. Typically, this tank holds 40 to 60 gallons. It has to be able to hold the pressure of a residential water system, which typically runs at 50 to 100 pounds per square inch (psi). The tank is tested to handle 300 psi. The steel tank normally has a bonded glass liner to keep rust out of the water.

2.     Insulation surrounding the tank

3.     A dip tube to let cold water into the tank

4.     A pipe to let hot water out of the tank

5.     A thermostat to control the temperature of the water inside the tank (Many electric water heaters have a separate thermostat on each element.)

6.     Heating elements to heat the water (These are the thick electric elements similar to those you see inside an electric oven.)

7.     A drain valve that allows you to drain the tank to replace the elements or move the tank

8.     A pressure relief valve (This is an important safety feature that keeps the tank from exploding.)

9.     A sacrificial anode rod to help keep the steel tank from corroding.

Heating the Water

The thermostat controls the temperature of the water inside the tank. Normally you can set the temperature between 120 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit (49 to 82 degrees Celsius). It is generally recommended that you keep the temperature between 120 to 140 degrees F (49 to 60 C) — especially if there are children living in the house — to prevent scalding. It also saves energy.

Normally, the thermostat is underneath a cover plate and it has a knob or a screw that you can use to set the temperature.

As cold water comes in, it remains at the bottom of the tank because it is denser than hot water. If you use the hot water faster than the heating elements can heat the incoming cold water, and if you consume all of the hot water that the tank holds, you run out of hot water in the middle of your shower. If this seems to happen too often, it could mean that the bottom heating element in an electric water heater has burned out or that your water heater is too small for your house. Or it could mean that you are taking really, really long showers.

If you have any problems at all with your water heater, the best thing to do is to find a qualified professional from Repairfinders.com to look at it. They can quickly find out what the problem is and fix it for you in a timely and cost efficient manner.

Security systems have become standard equipment in stores and other businesses, and they’re becoming increasingly common in private homes as well. If you’ve ever shopped for a home security system, then you know there are a wide variety of options available. These systems range from do-it-yourself kits you can pick up for $10 to sophisticated whole-house security networks that must be installed by professionals. But, as it turns out, most alarm systems are actually built around the same basic design concepts.

Breaking the Circuit

Other than the family dog, the most basic burglar alarm is a simple electric circuit built into an entry way. In any circuit, whether it’s powering a flashlight or a computer, electricity only flows when you give it a path between two points of opposite charge. To turn the electricity on or off, you open or close part of the circuit.

To open or close a flashlight circuit, you simply throw a switch. In a burglar alarm, the switch detects the act of intrusion — opening a door or window, for example. These sorts of alarms are divided into two categories:

In a closed-circuit system, the electric circuit is closed when the door is shut. This means that as long as the door is closed, electricity can flow from one end of the circuit to the other. But if somebody opens the door, the circuit is opened, and electricity can’t flow. This triggers an alarm.

In an open-circuit system, opening the door closes the circuit, so electricity begins to flow. In this system, the alarm is triggered when the circuit is completed.

There are a number of ways to build this sort of circuit into an entry way. Closed circuits are normally a better choice than open circuits because an intruder can deactivate the open circuit by simply cutting the connected wires.

A magnetic sensor in a closed circuit consists of a few simple components. For the most basic design, you need:

• a battery powering a circuit
• a spring-driven metal switch built into a door frame
• a magnet embedded in the door, lined up with the switch
• a separately-powered buzzer with a relay-driven switch.

When the door is closed, the magnet pulls the metal switch closed so the circuit is complete. The current powers the relay’s electromagnet, so the buzzer circuit stays open. When you move the magnet by opening the door, the spring snaps the switch back into the open position. This cuts off the current and closes the relay, sounding the alarm.

You can also build this sort of system into a window. If an intruder pushes a window open, the magnet slides out of line with the switch, and the buzzer is activated.

Another simple burglar alarm uses a small button as the switch. The button is embedded in the door frame, so closing the door pushes it in. When somebody opens the door, the button is released, changing the circuit and sounding the alarm.

With just a battery and buzzer, these designs make for fairly flawed security systems. After all, the burglar only needs to close the door again to turn the buzzer off. That’s why most modern burglar alarms incorporate another piece into the circuit — the control box.

The control box is hooked up to one or more alarm circuits, but it also has its own power supply. It monitors the circuits and sounds the alarm when they are closed or opened (depending on the design). But once the alarm is triggered, the control box won’t cut it off until somebody enters a security code at a connected keypad. For added security, the control box is usually positioned in an out-of-the-way spot, so the intruder can’t find it and attempt to destroy it.

Using this basic concept, you can create all sorts of alarm systems. Just imagine what a burglar might do to break into a house, and then turn that action into the circuit switch. For example, an intruder might break through a window, so you could make the glass itself a circuit. The easiest way to do this is run a current through a thin line of foil wire affixed to the surface of the glass. If a burglar breaks the glass, the circuit is broken, and the alarm is triggered.

Floor mats are another simple option. A basic floor mat uses an open circuit design with two metal strips spaced apart. When somebody steps on the mat, the pressure pushes the two metal strips together, completing a circuit.

All of these circuit systems are best for guarding the perimeter of a house or business — the points an intruder would enter the building. In the next section, we’ll look at systems that detect an intruder once he or she has already made it inside.

Detecting Motion

Circuit alarms are very effective for guarding the perimeter of a house, but they don’t work so well inside a building. This is because the intruder’s actions are highly unpredictable — you don’t know where they’ll go or what they’ll touch. A specific “trigger” isn’t very effective. To detect an intruder who’s already in the house, you need a motion detector.

Basic motion detectors are fairly common these days. You see them all the time in automatic doors, for example. There are several different sorts of detectors.

An automatic door opener is an example of a radar-based motion detector. The box above the door sends out bursts of microwave radio energy (or ultrasonic sound waves), and then waits for the reflected energy to bounce back. If there is nobody in front of the door, the radio energy will bounce back in the same pattern. But if somebody enters the area, the reflection pattern is disturbed. When this happens, the sensor sends a signal and the door opens. In a security system, the sensor sends an alarm signal when the reflection pattern in a room is disturbed.

Another simple design is a photo-sensor motion detector. These are the devices you might see in a store at a shopping mall. When somebody enters the store, the motion detector sounds a chime or bell. Photo-sensors have two components:

• a source of focused light (often a laser beam)
• a light sensor

In a home security system, you aim the beam at the light sensor, across a passageway in your house. When somebody walks between the light source and the sensor, the path of the beam is blocked briefly. The sensor registers a drop in light levels and sends a signal to the control box.

More advanced security systems include passive infrared (PIR) motion detectors. These sensors “see” the infrared energy emitted by an intruder’s body heat. When an intruder walks into the field of view of the detector, the sensor detects a sharp increase in infrared energy. Of course, there will always be gradual fluctuation of heat energy in an area, so PIR detectors are designed to trigger the alarm only when infrared energy levels change very rapidly. See this page for details.

All these motion detector designs can be combined in a house to offer complete coverage. In a typical security system, the control box will not sound the alarm immediately when the motion detectors are triggered. There is a short delay to give the homeowner time to enter a security code that turns the system off.

If the security code is not entered, however, the control box will activate various alarms. In the next section, we’ll look at some of the alarm types you might find in a typical security system.

Sounding the Alarm

There are several things a security system might do when it detects an intruder. In an advanced system, the control box will be wired to several different components. Typically, it will activate:

• a siren or other loud alarm noise
• flashing outdoor lights
• a telephone auto-dialer
• The siren and lights serve three functions:
• They alert occupants and neighbors that someone has broken into the house.
• They drive the intruder away.
• They signal to police which house has been broken into.

The telephone auto-dialer can: Dial the police directly, and play a pre-recorded message giving the address of the house and any other relevant information. This message will usually play over and over so that the police will still hear it even if the call is put on hold for some time.

Dial the security company that installed the equipment. In this case, the control box can feed specific information about the intrusion — which circuits or motion detectors were activated, etc. The security company then relays this information to the police.

Home security is a rapidly growing field, and there are new and improved burglar alarms popping up all the time. For the most part, these systems are all built around the same basic structure. A central control box monitors several motion detectors and perimeter guards and sounds an alarm when any of them are triggered. On repairfinders.com, you will have no trouble finding a qualified professional who can install a wonderful home security system of you today!

Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional algae bloom. Algae spores constantly enter the pool, brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight and presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae. The best process is one of elimination.

Algae is a living aquatic creature that multiplies rapidly on warm, sunny days. Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct.+

What problems can Algae cause?

The first noticeable problem is that no one seems to want to go swimming. The second problem is that it requires work and effort and money to rid the water completely of algae. It is therefore best to use preventative chemicals and techniques, described later. Algae can cloud and color the water, making rescue attempts difficult and reducing depth perception of a diver. Algae itself is not harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be harbor to pathogens like E-coli bacteria.

In addition to clogging up sanitation pathways in the water, algae also clogs up the pores in a filter, decreasing filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing or medium replacement. Algae creates a chlorine demand in the water for itself, actually consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden. Unsightly, unwanted space takers that create more work for the gardener, and sap up nutrients and resources from the flora we wish to grow.

What types of Algae are there?

There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! In the pool business we avoid all of the complication by referring to algae by the color they exhibit.

Green Algae: An extremely common variety, green algae will usually rear its ugly head immediately following a hazy condition in the water from a lack of proper filtration and/or sanitation. It is frequently found free floating in the water, although it also will cling to the walls. It reduces water clarity and is thereby distinguished from severe copper precipitation, which will impart a clear, green color to the water. Varieties of green algae also appear as “spots” on surfaces, particularly rough areas, or places where circulation is low. They also show up as “sheets”, where large wall sections, or even the entire pool, is coated in green slime…UGH!

Yellow Algae: A wall clinging variety, also called mustard algae, is usually found on the shady side of the pool. It is sheet forming, and can be difficult to eradicate completely. Once begun, a pool owner could spend the entire season fighting yellow algae; re-infection is common. This variety is resistant to normal chlorine levels and must be dealt with firmly. Hit it hard!

Black Algae: Perhaps the most aggravating strain of algae, it has been compared to herpes; “once you’ve got it, it’s there for life.” This is not entirely accurate, but the difficulty in eradication is due to the strong roots and protective layers over top of the black algae plant. Black algae will appear as dark black or blue/green spots, usually the size of a pencil eraser tip. Their roots extend into the plaster or tile grout, and unless the roots are destroyed completely, a new head will grow back in the same place. The heads also contain protective layers to keep cell destroying chemicals from entering the organism. Like yellow algae, black strains can bloom even in the presence of normal sanitizing levels and proper filtration. I was once told that this form of algae commonly enters a pool inside the swimsuit of a person who’s recently been to the ocean.

Pink Algae: Not really an algae at all, but a form of bacteria. Appears as spots or streaks in corners and crevices. It is slow to spread and rare that it will bloom over an entire pool.

How is algae prevented?

Proper chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom. high pH and low chlorine (or other sanitizer) can give algae a great start to genesis. General cleanliness of the pool is also important. Organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth. Regular brushing of seemingly clean pools is not only good exercise for you, but prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of the plaster, which is a good start for an algae colony.

The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides is recommended to provide a back up to normal sanitation and filtration processes and is completely necessary for many pools. These chemicals are described below:

Potassium Tetraborate: This chemical, when added to the pool water in proper dosage, prevents algae from converting carbon dioxide into the fuel it needs for growth. Manufactured under the trade name Proteam Supreme. An extraordinary product.

Chitin: Not an algaecide (meaning to kill algae) per se, but its properties might be called algaestatic (that is, to prevent algae growth). Chitin has the ability to coagulate and remove a wide variety of suspended materials and impurities from the water. This allows the sanitizer to more effectively kill contaminants unobstructed. It also improves the effectiveness of the filtration equipment. Sold under the trade name Sea-Klear, chitin can be a valuable weapon in your algae arsenal.

Algaecides and Algaestats:

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds:

A low grade type of algaecide, Quats, as they are called, will usually have “10″ somewhere on the bottle, representing 10% active ingredient. Although available at a lower cost, quats tend to produce a small amount of surface foaming. They are most effective as an algaestat, that is, as a prevention, not a cure.

Polymers:

Polymers are long, complicated chemical chains that behave in water both as an algaestat and an algaecide. They are available in percentage strength of 30 – 60%, are non foaming, and work well as general, all around algae treatments. Poly-Quats are a blended compound of polymer and quats.

Copper Based:

Copper is a proven algaecide and algaestat. Available in varying non foaming strength of 3 – 10%. It works very well on all types of algae, but it has the drawback of staining white plaster surfaces a light blue/green color if it precipitates out of solution. Most copper based algaecides are chelated, which means that agents have been added to prevent this, such as Lo-Chlor Algaecide.

Silver Based:

Silver has been shown to be an effective bacteriostat, which means that it works to prevent bacteria from reproducing. Non foaming and effective with pink algae. In high doses, reactions with sunlight can cause colloidal silver to deposit as black stains on white plaster. When using copper or silver algaecides, the use of a sequestering agent is recommended.

Chlorine Enhancers:

These are not algaecides, but work to provide a synergistic boost to hypochlorites when added separately, but at the same time. Sold under trade names like Mustard Buster, Yellow-Out or Yellow Treat, it is most effective on, you guessed it, yellow algae. Since it is not an algaecide, the makers are not required to tell what it is made of, but we do know that it works quite well, in conjunction with a little brushing and vacuuming on your part.

Too late to prevent it…How do I  kill algae?

First off, find a pool specialist on Repairfinders.com who will balance your water, paying particular attention to pH. Secondly, they will check your filter system and clean if necessary. Adjust valving for optimum circulation and allow it to run 24 hours a day until the pool clears. Turn on automatic cleaners to help stir things up. Backwash as necessary.

For suspended green algae, shock the pool…hard. Put in as much hypochlorite as it takes to turn the pool a cloudy, bluish/gray color. Brush the walls and floors towards the main drain. Backwash the filter when the pressure gauge indicates the need (8 – 10 lbs. above clean reading, after backwashing.) Using a flocculent may be a good choice if the pool is extremely “swampy”. If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, and it is filled with leaves and debris, it may be wise to drain the pool, acid wash and refill it.

After the chlorine level has come down below 5 ppm, add an algaecide and brush the pool again. When it all settles, vacuum the pool (to waste, if possible). Check and re-balance the pool water if necessary.

For algae which is not suspended, but only clinging to the walls, follow the same advice above, first shock with brushing, then add an algaecide, brush again, vacuum to waste (preferred) or vacuum and then backwash the filter. Use of a steel bristled brush is recommended for algae on plaster pools (use nylon brush on vinyl). Filter, Filter, Filter!

For black algae, the brushing part is very important. You must tear through the protective layers so the chemicals can destroy the plant from the inside out. Pumice stones work well to knock off the heads of black algae. (Don’t forget to vacuum them up later, and backwash them out of the filter ASAP). Also effective on the black algae nodules is sprinkling granular trichlor over the spots (of course if they’re on the wall this is next to impossible). Rubbing the spots on the walls with a trichlor tablet or stick can also be effective to knock off the heads and get trichlor directly to the roots. Follow up with a dose of copper algaecide, or high strength polymers. Simazine, an herbicide, was a very effective black algae treatment, but is no longer available in America.

If algae has been an ongoing problem in your pool for several years, you may do well to drain the pool.  Many years of algae builds up dead algae cells and lots of other solids in the water that contribute to its rejuvenation. Acid washing and/or pressure washing is preferable once drained, to kill the roots of the algae embedded in the plaster. NEXT: Change the sand if you have a sand filter or change the cartridge if it is a cartridge type. Sand should be changed every 5 – 7 yrs (or every 2 if you use Baquacil), and cartridge filters should  have new elements every 1 – 2 years. If you have a D.E. filter (good for you!), you should remove the elements, spray clean, soak in a 10 : 1 water/ bleach solution, rinse and replace. A well functioning filter will prevent algae.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have. Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day. Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less). For good algae prevention, we need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation. It may be time to consider changing the old pump and filter. It’s cheaper and easier to pay a little up front for more chemicals, electricity or better equipment than all the money and aggravation spent on fighting algae blooms.

Your transmission is a remarkable contraption. Somehow it can shift your car from gear to gear, knowing how fast you need to go and how quickly you need to get there. What goes on inside is a mystery to most. Unless your thirst for automotive knowledge borders on compulsive, you can leave it a mystery. The basics will be enough to have an intelligent (which translates to “not about to be ripped off”) conversation with your mechanic.

Basic Parts of a Transmission

While there are many, many little parts inside, your transmission is essentially made up of a few key parts of systems.

Bell Housing: This is the cone shaped metal case that you can see when you peek underneath your car. If you have a front-wheel-drive car, it is stuck on the side of the engine under the hood. If your car is rear-wheel-drive, the transmission will be mounted underneath the car behind the engine.

Gears: Even though you are not shifting them, an automatic transmission has gears. They are broken into main gears and planetary gears. You need all of these to be able to drive.

Fluid: Transmission fluid is very important to an automatic transmission. All of the magic happens in the fluid. Most cars come with red transmission fluid, good to know if you are looking for a leak.

Filter: All of that fluid has to be clean for your car to shift gears at the right time. To keep things fresh, your transmission has a filter to catch any gunk.

Now that you know a little about what is happening in there, you can try to figure out why your transmission is acting up, or at least understand what your mechanic is talking about while he tries to make your bill into his new fishing boat.

Transmission problems fall into two very similar categories:

1.     Won’t go.

2.     Won’t go smoothly

These two groups of problems are caused by the same faults in your transmission, so whichever your car is doing, the following applies.

Is your fluid level correct?

It is important to check your transmission fluid at least twice a year. Not only can a low fluid level cause your car to shift poorly, it can eventually lead to transmission damage, and a costly repair. If your car seems to be losing fluid on a regular basis, you may have a leak.

Is your transmission leaking?

Checking for leaks is not as trying as it may seem. The transmission is a closed system, so there are only a few places that can spring a leak. Unless it has been changed to a non-dyed fluid, your car will have red transmission fluid. Here are a few places to check for leaks:

• At the filler tube base.
• At the drain hole underneath the transmission.
• Between the transmission and the engine.
• At the selector shaft – the rod that connects your gear shift to the transmission.
• Speed sensor-mounting point. Either this will be your cable screwing into the transmission housing or an electronic sensor bolted to the housing.
• The radiator. If your car has a transmission cooler, it is possible that a leak will cause transmission fluid to leak into the radiator fluid. They do not mix well, so you will see it floating around in there.

Is your filter clogged?

Your transmission’s filer is vital to its performance. If you have not replaced your filter in a while (or ever for a lot of us), be sure to do this before you start talking about rebuilds or replacements.

Most transmission problems cannot be fixed by the average do-it-yourselfer. There are just too many specialized tools and pieces of equipment you will need, and buying this expensive gear just to screw up your first three tries at fixing the thing just doesn’t make too much sense.

Now that you are in front of the firing squad, it is time to drop some knowledge on your fix-it person. Tell him what the car is doing. Then tell him what you found out when you inspected the transmission. If there is a leak, let him know where and how much is leaking.

Time for a rebuild?

When your transmission gets tired enough, you will have to have it rebuilt. It is true. For some makes and models of car, it is true a little too often, but that is unimportant. The important thing is checking any other possible causes to your problem before you take the transmission apart, which is very expensive. That is why I am here to help. On Repairfinders.com, you will find an affordable mechanic who won’t overcharge you, and who will do the best work possible. If you have not replaced your filter yet, do it! This fixes a nice percentage of transmission problems. If your filter is good, and nothing simple is out of adjustment, be prepared to drop some serious dough on the rebuild. The good news is that most shops warrantee transmissions rebuild for a nice amount of time, and on Repairfinders, it so easy to find a hardworking professional, because every business listed is hardworking, honest, reliable, and professional!

Having a couple of teenagers these days can get quite expensive. Food, clothing,  spending money, and of course electronics can really add up. Last Christmas my son wanted an iPod. We got a really good deal on the 60 GB iPod video and it made my son very happy. At least until a week ago. That is when, and nobody knows how it happened, the LCD got broken. Great! What is this going to cost me?

After searching around I found that it would be between $20 and $80 to have it repaired. Well that really is not all that much, considering what the iPod cost, but I really did not want to spend that much money. Not because I am cheap, but because I know that this will not be the last time this get broken and I wanted to see if I could do it myself.

Off to eBay

I searched eBay for iPod parts and I found this place, that had screens for the iPod for $12. That’s right $12! I though how can anyone sell a screens this cheap, there has to be a catch. But what the hell I’ll give it a try. So I hit the buy it now button and with shipping the total was $18. Worse case if it was junk I would have learned my lesson and only lost $18.

Today’s mail brought the display. I went out on the Internet to get the instructions on how to take the iPod apart and in about 15 minutes I had the new screen installed and the unit back together, and best of all IT Worked!!!!

I believe the reason that the display was so cheap is because the parts are used. The display I got was in great shape but had a few light scratches on it. However these did not even show up when installed. I went back and checked the site and it did not say that these were new parts. Honestly I don’t care. The part works and it only cost me $18 and 15 minutes of my time. I also wanted to mention that they even included the tools I needed to get the iPod open at no extra cost.

All-in-all this was a great experience and I can honestly say that I will be repairing anymore problems myself. One caveat. If you are not comfortable taking things apart or working on electronic equipment I suggest you pay the extra cost to have one of the many iPod repair shops fix your unit for you. You could end up damaging it more than it already is. So for all your repair needs go to Repairfinders.com, where only the best in the business are listed.

After mechanical wristwatches enjoyed a long, long run of popularity, watches that sported battery-operated quartz movements eventually replaced them. However, many people still collect, and even wear, mechanical wristwatches to this day. A tiny battery does not power mechanical wristwatches, which are also known as “Wind Ups”. Instead, what “makes them tick” are coiled mainsprings that are run by a series of springs, gears, and wheels. If you have one of these timepieces, you can learn how to repair common mechanical wristwatch problems.

Replace a Wristwatch Crystal
First, a crystal is the clear piece that covers the face or the dial of a watch. If the mechanical wristwatch has scratches on its crystal, an experienced jeweler can buff them out. Deep gouges may sometimes be buffed out, but not always.

The crystals on mechanical wristwatches are typically made of glass, plastic, or a manmade sapphire. Replacement crystals can be difficult to find, especially if the wristwatch is very old. Therefore, you may have to replace a broken crystal with a different material than the original one was made with. Fortunately, most watch crystals are round. Nevertheless, some timepieces were made with odd-shaped crystals, and replacements can be even harder to locate.

Once you locate a suitable replacement crystal for the mechanical wristwatch, you will need to remove the broken or damaged one first before you can make the repair. To do this, you will need to carefully remove the back off the watch. Then, carefully take the movement out of the casing. You will probably have to remove the crown first. The crown part is the small knob on the side of the wristwatch you use to wind it. After the movement is removed, push the crystal out of the bezel and insert the replacement crystal. Reverse the process to put your mechanical wristwatch back together again.

On Repairfinders.com, it will only take you a couple of minutes to find a clock and repair shop in your area that can assist you, in keeping the value of your items. Not only are these businesses willing to help you, they are also hardworking, honest, and reliable individuals that wont overcharge you, or leave you unsatisfied.